|Tech Tips by Randy Pozzi|
|Tech Tip #37 Honda CH250 Audible Pilot Diagnostics & Repair|
The turn signals on my 1985 Honda CH 250 were always audible and direct. Suddenly, the turn signals would flash but the audible beep became intermittent, sometimes working other times no sound at all. And when the sound was heard, it wasn’t loud. I began an investigation.
The turn signal relay and audible pilot are located inside the handle pipe in front of the speedometer cluster. To access it you must remove the mirrors and front speedometer cover.
The wiring diagram for the 1985-86 Honda CH 250 uses a flasher relay wired in circuit with the audible pilot—the clicking mechanism. When the turn signal is energized, the bulb lights and the flasher winks it. Some call the turn signals the winker for this reason. When the flasher turns off the bulb, the audible pilot clicks once then disengages. This process is repeated until manually disengaged by the operator.
The wiring system changed for the 1986-87 models in that both the flasher and the audible pilot were incorporated into a single unit.
For the separate audible pilot, it is a metal canister with a metal cap. Inside, the wires run to a simple relay coil that, when energized, moves a plate front to back. The clicking sound is the metal plate striking the metal cap.
The audible pilot for the 1985-86 Honda CH 250 is PN #SKU: 38401-KM1-670, $20.45). The flasher relay is 38301-GN3-672, $37.95). Please note: A generic 12-volt flasher replacement is available at most automotive stores for about $4. It works just as well although finding a square one to fit into the rubber suspension is hard.
When I removed the audible pilot, I discovered that one of the wires had broken loose from the inside of the canister. Since most Honda mechanics probably replace the audible pilot because the metal cap is crimped onto the housing, I decided it was worth a look.
I took a screwdriver and pushed the crimp away from the housing all along its circular edge until the cap separated. There are two screws on the back of the audible pilot—one large one which holds the relay coil in place—remove that one. The other screw has a 7mm nut on a Phillips screw. This screw adjusts the loudness of the relay click.
You should check the relay for continuity prior to and after soldering any broken wires. I soldered the wire back in place. I then crimped the top back on to the housing. I used the screw with the nut to adjust the loudness. About one-and-one half-turns outward of the screw then lock it down by tightening the nut to the case is about right for loudness. It’s a good idea to silicone the wires coming out the back of the pilot because they are not protected with a rubber grommet. I used a hot glue gun to secure my wires.
I checked its operation on the battery prior to installation.
Replace the audible pilot then re-assemble front handle pipe in reverse order.
Randy Pozzi (06/2009)
and maintained by doug Elam