Tech Tips by Randy Pozzi

Service Procedures
Service Manuals
Tech Tips By Randy Pozzi
CH250 - Helix Interchange
Readers Rides
For sale

Parts Diagrams

#1 Breather Separator
#2 Drive Belt & Pulley Weight Rollers
#3 Startability & Driveability Problems
#4 CH250 Performance Upgrades
#5 CH250 Valve Adjustment
#6 Decals
#7 Pilot Screw Adjustment & Fix
#8 CH250 Driven Pulley/Clutch Repair
#9 Final Drive Oil Change
#10 Storing Your CH250 in Winter
#11 Hondaline Kenwood AM/FM Stereo
#12 Front Bumper Protector & Lower Cover Repair
#13 How To Buy A Good 1985-88 CH250
#14 Tires For The Honda CH 250
#15 CH250 Keihin Carb Float Valve Repair
#16 The Honda CH250: An Overview
#17 Honda CH250 Color Crossovers
#18 Honda CH250 Clock
#19 Keihin CV Carburetor Tuning
#20 Honda CH250 Oil Change
#21 Backfiring On Deceleration
#22 Parts Bin--What To Hoard For Your CH250
#23 Honda CH250 Maintenance
#24 So Your Honda Scooter Won't Start?
#25 How To Buy A Battery For Your CH250
#26 Honda CB350 Shocks To The Honda CH250
#27 1985-88 Honda CH250 Speedo Maintenance
#28 Honda CH-250 Antifreeze/Coolant Service
#29 CH250 Charging System Checks
#30  Final Reduction and Wheel Bearing Maintenance

#10 Storing Your CH250 in Winter
Hello Group,

For some of us, Winter is right around the corner. For those of you who don't ride their bikes year long, a few tips on storing your Honda Elite CH250 are in order. How many crucial maintenance operations are there and what are they?


One of the first things you should do is a general cleaning of the scooter which, when done carefully and without the use of particularly aggressive cleaning products, helps preserve both painted parts and those made of plastic. A good cleaner/wax will enhance the finish and protect it.


Now that the scooter has been cleaned, let's move on to the battery. This is definitely one of the components most affected by the prolonged break. It is therefore necessary to make sure that the battery is charged at least once a month and kept, with the
charging clips disconnected, in a dry place that is not exposed to low temperatures. To recharge it without the risk of ensuing damage, it is advisable to use an intelligent battery charger, which automatically stops charging once the optimum level has been reached and the amperage is suited to motorcycle batteries. If any of the electrolyte is low, refill with distilled water. Starting your scoot and running it for short bursts periodically in
the Winter without sufficient warming to charge the battery has little value.


Let's not forget the engine oil. Having been left sitting for a long time, there is not only a risk of acidification and therefore corrosion of the metal, but also of the prevention of condensation evaporation. This is discernible by a brownish foam that often deposits in the air filter and clogs it. It is therefore necessary to drain the used oil and clean the filter screen while the engine is hot and the motorcycle is turned off, replacing it before leaving it inactive for the winter. Follow the scheduled maintenance contained in the owner or service manual. Do not run the engine over the winter! You'll just create condensation in the engine and combustion byproducts (acids, etc) in the oil. Resist the temptation. Hey, don't forget to change the final drive oil too!


Check the coolant level in the radiator to be sure it is full. Use an antifreeze tester to determine that it has protection suitable for Winter. Use only Hondaline or equivalent antifreeze. A 50/50 mix of silicate and phosphate free antifreeze will take you to minus
34 degrees.


As for the lubrication of the piston and the cylinder skirt, some die-hards feel this protection is necessary. First, unscrew the spark plug. Pour or squirt some two-stroke oil or Marvel Mystery Oil directly into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Turn the engine over a couple of times to distribute the oil inside the engine cylinder. Be careful not to overdo it as the excess oil could wet the spark plug thus making startup difficult. Once this is done, replace and tighten the spark plug by hand then a quarter turn. Do not over tighten. Upon Spring start-up, the piston and rings will be lubricated until internal oiling begins.


Fuel is one of the most important subjects to deal with. Perhaps not everyone knows that gasoline ages, but this would be the least of our problems. The real problem is tied to condensation. When condensation comes in contact with the inner surfaces of
the steel tank, it causes rust. The solution to this problem is to mix a fuel stabilizer with fresh gas and fill the scooter tank full. Run the scooter to ensure the gas and stabilizer are in the system. This allows the motorcycle to be ready to run in minutes if the desire to hop on the saddle suddenly comes over you. If you're not going to stabilize the gas, you must get all of the gas out of the carb. The problem with only draining the float bowl is
that you haven't removed all of the gas from the carburetor -- capillary action can hold fuel in the small passages inside the carburetor which may gel. Bottom line---stabilize the gas and ensure its completely in the system and forget draining the carb. The use of aviation gas as a winter storage fuel and stabilizer has also proved to be effective.


Moving on to the tires, you should keep the tires off the ground during the Winter. Rest the scooter on its center stand and prop the front tire off the ground with wood. Inflate the tires 5-6 pounds over specification. When you start using the scoot again, it will be
sufficient to restore the tire pressure indicated in the owner's manual.


If you decide to cover your scoot, use one that is made of breathable cotton material. Avoid using nylon covers, as they do not allow transpiration and can therefore create dangerous condensation underneath the cover. For outside storage, purpose-made bike covers work well, as does anything made of Gore-Tex.

Randy Pozzi (Rev. 11/2005)

Site Designed and maintained by doug Elam
Terms of use