Tech Tips by Randy Pozzi

Service Procedures
Service Manuals
Tech Tips By Randy Pozzi
CH250 - Helix Interchange
Readers Rides
For sale

Parts Diagrams

#1 Breather Separator
#2 Drive Belt & Pulley Weight Rollers
#3 Startability & Driveability Problems
#4 CH250 Performance Upgrades
#5 CH250 Valve Adjustment
#6 Decals
#7 Pilot Screw Adjustment & Fix
#8 CH250 Driven Pulley/Clutch Repair
#9 Final Drive Oil Change
#10 Storing Your CH250 in Winter
#11 Hondaline Kenwood AM/FM Stereo
#12 Front Bumper Protector & Lower Cover Repair
#13 How To Buy A Good 1985-88 CH250
#14 Tires For The Honda CH 250
#15 CH250 Keihin Carb Float Valve Repair
#16 The Honda CH250: An Overview
#17 Honda CH250 Color Crossovers
#18 Honda CH250 Clock
#19 Keihin CV Carburetor Tuning
#20 Honda CH250 Oil Change
#21 Backfiring On Deceleration
#22 Parts Bin--What To Hoard For Your CH250
#23 Honda CH250 Maintenance
#24 So Your Honda Scooter Won't Start?
#25 How To Buy A Battery For Your CH250
#26 Honda CB350 Shocks To The Honda CH250
#27 1985-88 Honda CH250 Speedo Maintenance
#28 Honda CH-250 Antifreeze/Coolant Service
#29 CH250 Charging System Checks
#30  Final Reduction and Wheel Bearing Maintenance

Tech Tip #34 Honda CH250 Steering Stem Ball Race Replacement

The front steering stem on the Honda CH 250 may need to be repaired or the ball races replaced when the front fork is damaged or the bearings are excessively worn.

To access the steering stem, the front handle pipe covers must come off. You must remove the right and left mirrors, the headlight cover, the two trim clip screws and front emblem, the two clips and two upper handlebar cover attachment bolts, four screws attaching the instruments, disconnect the right and left turn signal couplers and upper handlebar cover, remove multi-coupler bolts and disconnect the speedometer cable from under the instruments, remove instrument cluster. It is unnecessary to remove the right and left grips and switches as those can be moved aside.

The next step is to remove the front wheel, the front shock absorber and pivot link and the two bolts holding the inner fender and inner fender.

Using a 32mm deep socket, remove the steering stem lock nut. The handlebars can be lifted and set to the side. Use a bungee cord near the wheel well to hold the fork from dropping. Place a shop towel over the frame cover opening to catch the steel stem bearing balls as they fall. Using a 40mm spanner wrench, remove the top cone race nut and top cone race. Gently lower the steering stem. Usually, all the lower race balls fall to the floor. Be careful.

There are 26 steel balls in the top race and 19 steel balls in the lower race. The replacement parts are the upper race 96211-05000, (#5) (5/32), the lower race 96211-08000 (#8) (1/4) and the dust seal (if necessary) 53214-250-000.

Inspect the top and bottom ball races for wear or damage. Usually, unless they have been seriously neglected, they rarely require replacing. Either race can be removed using a bearing puller and replaced using a 42mm bearing driver.

When installing the steel balls, place a lithium grease bead around the bottom cone race and with tweezers, place the 19 steel balls in the grease, and then place the bottom ball race cover over them. Do the same for the 26 steel balls in the top cone race. Insert the front fork into the steering head housing from below and bungee cord to hold from dropping. Apply grease to the top cone race and install race nut. Tighten race nut until snug, and then back off quarter turn. Torque 1.4 to 2.2 ft-lbs.

Install front handle pipe assembly in reverse order.

Randy Pozzi (01/09)

Site Designed and maintained by doug Elam
Terms of use